The Forts of Chilarai at Cooch Behar, West Bengal: An Archaeological Reconnaissance

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Author : Biswarup Chatterje

Introduction 

Chilarai Fort Cooch Behar refers to the archaeological remains traditionally associated with the forts of Chilarai at Andaran-Phulbari in the Tufanganj subdivision of Cooch Behar district, West Bengal. The region formed an important part of the historical landscape of the Koch kingdom, which emerged as a major political power in north-eastern India during the sixteenth century.

Cooch Behar is characterised by an extensive riverine landscape. The Tista, Jaldhaka, Torsa, Kaljani, Raidak and Gadadhar constitute some of the major river systems of the district (Majumdar 1977). These rivers and their associated channels, wetlands and floodplains played an important role in shaping settlement patterns and communication networks and may also have influenced the defensive strategies adopted in the region.

Chilarai, whose original name was Śukladhvaja, was the younger brother of the Koch ruler Naranarayana and one of the principal military figures of the Koch kingdom. Historical traditions associate him with the military expansion of Koch power across parts of north-eastern India during the sixteenth century (Ahmad 1990).
 Local tradition associates two archaeological sites at Andaran-Phulbari with Chilarai. These are popularly known as Chilarai-er Choto Kot (the Small Fort of Chilarai) and Chilarai-er Boro Kot (the Large Fort of Chilarai). The surviving remains of these sites have not yet been subjected to systematic archaeological excavation. Nevertheless, structural debris, brick fragments, stone blocks, traces of earthworks, water bodies and other surface remains indicate considerable archaeological potential.
The present study offers a preliminary archaeological reconnaissance of these two sites, with particular attention to their topography, surviving structural features, building materials, water systems and associated oral traditions. Since scientific excavation and archaeological dating have yet to be undertaken, several interpretations proposed here should be regarded as provisional.

Chilarai-er Choto Kot: The Small Fort

The remains locally identified as Chilarai-er Choto Kot are situated at Andaran-Phulbari in the Tufanganj subdivision of Cooch Behar district, approximately at 26°20′18.78″ N, 89°40′12.684″ E.
According to local reports, the fort once extended over approximately 52 bighas. At present, however, visible structural remains and scattered archaeological materials appear to be concentrated over a considerably smaller area of approximately 5–6 bighas. Local oral traditions suggest that the area within the Choto Kot may have accommodated soldiers or been used for military and administrative activities.
Local tradition holds that the fort was once surrounded by a moat. No clearly preserved continuous moat is presently visible, and its original extent and configuration cannot be established without detailed archaeological and topographical investigation.

Ralph Fitch and the Defensive Landscape

The account of the English traveller Ralph Fitch, who travelled through the region during the late sixteenth century, provides an important textual source for understanding aspects of the Koch kingdom.. His narrative contains descriptions of defensive arrangements involving extensive water bodies and bamboo barriers (Ryley 1899).

According to Fitch’s description, bamboo stakes could be placed in water surrounding fortified settlements in order to obstruct the movement of soldiers and horses. He also refers to the use of water as part of defensive strategies during warfare.

Such observations are relevant to the study of fortified landscapes in the Koch region, particularly when considered alongside local traditions concerning the moats of the Chilarai forts. Nevertheless, Fitch’s general description should not automatically be interpreted as direct evidence for the surviving structures at Andaran-Phulbari. Establishing such a relationship would require further archaeological investigation.

The Moat and Local Oral Traditions

The original relationship between the moat of the Choto Kot and the surrounding river system remains uncertain. Oral testimonies collected from local residents preserve different interpretations.
According to Sri Dharma Narayana Barma, a retired local schoolteacher, the water surrounding the fort was not connected with a river. Sri Nirmal Barman, another retired teacher, recalled a different tradition according to which the water system was connected with the Sankhola or Chanfela River, which communicated with the Raidak river system. At present, these accounts cannot be independently verified through visible archaeological evidence. They are therefore best regarded as valuable components of local historical memory that may guide future archaeological and geographical investigation.

Building Materials and Structural Remains

The availability of bamboo and timber in northern Bengal raises the possibility that perishable materials formed an important component of the fortifications.
Local tradition further distinguishes the functions of the two forts. The Choto Kot is sometimes associated with military or administrative activities, while the Boro Kot is remembered as a more substantial residential complex. Some oral traditions even associate the latter with Chilarai himself. These traditions remain important for reconstructing local historical memory, although archaeological corroboration is necessary.
Despite the probable use of earth, bamboo and timber, surviving brick remains indicate the presence of permanent architectural components. Brick fragments are still visible along sections of the structural mound. Local tradition associates these bricks with an old abandoned brick-producing locality known as Jalas-er Dabari, situated at Ghogarkuthi village in Andaran-Phulbari Panchayat No. 2. Bricks documented in connection with the site measure approximately 14 × 6.5 × 4.5 cm. Brick dimensions alone, however, cannot establish chronology, and scientific archaeological examination would be necessary.
No complete boundary wall of the Choto Kot survives above ground. Nevertheless, stretches of debris interpreted as remnants of the former enclosure are visible. One such stretch towards the south-east measures approximately 125 m, while other surviving stretches have been estimated at approximately 100 m and 70 m.

Chilarai Fort Cooch Behar – exposed brick remains at Chilarai-er Boro Kot

Chilarai-er Boro Kot: The Large Fort

Chilarai-er Boro Kot is situated approximately 2.5 km west of the Choto Kot and about 3–4 km north-west of Tufanganj town. Administratively, the site falls within Andaran-Phulbari Gram Panchayat No. 2. Local accounts suggest that the Boro Kot originally occupied a considerably larger area than the Choto Kot, extending over approximately 350 bighas.
Some of these stone slabs, measuring approximately 36 × 11 × 8 inches, have also been reported from the area. Although these remains provide important evidence for the architectural character of the site, their precise function and chronological context cannot be established without systematic archaeological investigation.
Field observations suggest that the surviving remains of the Boro Kot may be divided into two principal zones: an outer area measuring approximately 4.5 bighas and an inner area of about 3.5 bighas. This apparent spatial division may reflect different functional sectors within the fortified complex; however, its precise character cannot be determined without detailed topographical survey and archaeological investigation.
Dressed stone block associated with the archaeological remains of Chilarai-er Choto Kot
Chakchaka bill and the surrounding archaeological landscape of Chilarai-er Choto Kot
Decorated temple rosettes recovered from debris around Chilarai-er Boro Kot
Local accounts further suggest that the Boro Kot was enclosed by an earthen boundary wall, reportedly reaching a height of approximately 7–8 ft. Traces interpreted locally as remnants of this enclosure are still visible along the north-western side of the site. These features require systematic archaeological and topographical examination before their original form, extent and chronology can be established with certainty.
According to local oral traditions, a water connection may once have existed between the Boro Kot and the Choto Kot. Local accounts suggest that the water bodies associated with the two fortified sites may have been linked by a channel towards the north-western side, traces of which are reportedly still visible in the landscape. Local accounts also place a possible entrance to the Boro Kot on its north-eastern side. These observations, however, remain provisional and require verification through detailed topographical survey and archaeological investigation.

Archaeological Significance

The archaeological remains associated with Chilarai Fort Cooch Behar, together with the scattered materials documented in the surrounding area, indicate the considerable archaeological potential of these sites.  The forts may be understood within the broader military and settlement landscape associated with the Koch kingdom during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Their strategic location, earthen defensive features, water systems and surviving structural remains provide important evidence for examining patterns of fortification, settlement and landscape use in pre-modern northern Bengal.

Conclusion

The forts traditionally associated with Chilarai at Andaran-Phulbari constitute an important but insufficiently investigated component of the archaeological landscape of Cooch Behar. The surviving structural remains, brick fragments, dressed stone blocks, traces of earthen enclosures and associated water systems indicate the archaeological potential of the area. At the same time, local oral traditions preserve valuable memories concerning the functions of the Choto Kot and Boro Kot and their association with Chilarai. Such traditions, however, need to be examined critically alongside archaeological and historical evidence. The relationship between the forts, surrounding water bodies and the wider riverine landscape is particularly significant for understanding patterns of defence and settlement in the Koch kingdom. Systematic archaeological survey, topographical mapping and, where appropriate, scientific excavation are therefore necessary to establish the chronology, structural development and historical functions of these sites. Until such investigations are undertaken, the interpretations presented here should be regarded as preliminary. Nevertheless, the surviving remains associated with Chilarai Fort Cooch Behar demonstrate the importance of preserving and documenting these sites as part of the archaeological and cultural heritage of the region.

 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Sincere thanks are due to Dr. Rajat Sanyal for his editorial support. During the field investigation, I received invaluable assistance from Sri Biresh Chandra Barman, Sri Amarendranath Basakh, Sri Rabindranath Das and Sri Fatik Chandra Barma. I remain grateful to all of them for their generous help and cooperation.

 BIBLIOGRAPHY

Ahmad, Khan Chaudhary Amanatulla. 1990 [reprint]. Kochbiharer Itihas. Vol. 1. Cooch Behar: Cooch Behar State Press.
Gait, Edward Albert. 1906. A History of Assam. Calcutta: Thacker, Spink & Co.
Majumdar, Durgadas. 1977. West Bengal District Gazetteers: Koch Bihar. Calcutta: Government of West Bengal.
Ryley, J. Horton. 1899. Ralph Fitch, England’s Pioneer to India and Burma: His Companions and Contemporaries, with His Remarkable Narrative Told in His Own Words. London: T. Fisher Unwin.
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